Africa Point: Senegal Travel Information

Senegal:

Travel Basics

Overview

The most happening hang in West Africa, tropical Senegal is lauded for its beauties both natural and ephemeral. From its urbane capital, Dakar - many travelers' favourite amongst the larger African cities - to its fertile southern region of forest and farmland, the Casamance, much of its lands are lush and vital, especially compared to the expansive deserts that surround it. Senegal's arts are just as lively, with a thriving textile market and an entourage of internationally known native musicians, such as Youssou N'dour and Touré Kunda. Altogether, Senegal's attractions bring in more visitors than any other country's in the region. True, most are package tourists soaking up the sunshine in the highbrow hotels that line its Atlantic shore, but there's something in Senegal for every budget and the best of it - a good wander through its streets and plains - is free.

When to go

The best time to travel in Senegal is between November and March, when it's cool and dry. However, around this same time of year the dry, dusty harmattan winds blow off the Sahara. If you're going there to scuba dive, the waters are at their clearest from February to April. Bird-watchers will want to be around for the November-to-April migratory season.


Essential Info

Visas: Visas are required for all foreigners, except nationals of Denmark, France, Germany, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, the UK and the US, who may visit for up to 90 days without a visa.

Health risks: Malaria, bilharzia (schistosomiasis), cholera

Time: GMT/UTC

Electricity: 110/240V

Weights & measures: Metric


Currency: Communaute Financière Africaine franc (CFAF)

Relative costs:

• Budget meal: US$1-5
• Moderate restaurant meal: US$5-10
• Top-end restaurant meal: US$10 and upwards
• Budget room: US$8-20
• Moderate hotel: US$20-45
• Top-end hotel: US$45 and upwards

Hotels in Dakar are expensive by the standards of other African capitals, though they're still relatively cheap for Westerners. There are a few bargain places as well as plenty of places to splurge, if you're in a regal mood. Budget travelers should figure on spending US$15-20 a day, mid-rangers about double that. Even hard-core spenders will be hard pressed to part with more than US$100 a day. Outside the capital, prices are significantly lower at all but the most touristed sites.

Money

Cashing travelers' cheques is easy in Dakar but difficult elsewhere if they're not in French francs. Some banks give cash advances with Visa cards, but sometimes only for French cards (e.g. Carte Bleue), as they are easier to verify. The process can take 24 hours. There are banks in all the main towns and one at the airport. Bargaining is common in the markets.


Destination facts

Full country name: Republic of Senegal

Area: 196,190 sq. km (75,750 sq. mi)

Population: 9.4 million

Capital city: Dakar (pop 900,000)

People: Wolof (36%), Fulani (17%), Sérèr (17%), Toucouleur (9%), Diola (9%), Mandingo (9%), European (1%) and Lebanese

Languages: French (official), Wolof, Pulaar, Diola, Mandingo

Religion: 96% Islam, 6% indiginous beliefs, 2% Christian

Government: Republic under multi-party democratic rule

President: Abdou Diouf

Prime Minister: Habib Thiam

Economy facts

GDP: US$15.6 billion
GDP per head: US$1700
Annual growth: 5%
Inflation: 7.8%
Major industries: agricultural and fish processing, phosphate mining, petroleum refining, construction materials
Major trading partners: France, EU, Nigeria, Cameroon, Côte d'Ivoire, Mali, Algeria, China, Japan

Peoples and History

Peoples

Like many African tribes, Senegal's main indigenous group, the Wolof, has a highly stratified society wherein status is determined by birth. At the top of the social heap are traditional noble and warrior families, followed by the farmers, traders and persons of caste - blacksmiths, leather workers, wood workers, weavers and griots (GREE-oh). Griots are the lowest of the castes but are highly respected, as they are in charge of passing on the oral traditions and are usually the only ones who can recite a family or village history. They used to be the entertainers of the royal families; these days, if you're fortunate enough to hear a kora played, the player will almost certainly be from a griot family. Slaves occupied the lowest rung of the social ladder, and although slavery is now long gone, many descendants of former slaves still work as tenant farmers for the masters of old.

Over 80% of Senegal's population is Muslim, including the Wolof, Toucouleur and Mandinka. (The Fulani, or Peul, and the Diola are animists by tradition, while many of the Sérèr are Catholics.) One of the primary differences between orthodox Islam and the Senegalese version is the latter's reverence for its Grand Caliphs, or marabouts (holy men), who are thought to link their disciples and Allah. Few people would think of making a big decision without consulting their town's Grand Marabout.

French is the official language and Wolof the principal African tongue. The Toucouleur and Fulani speak Pulaar (or Fula), while the Sérèr speak Sérèr. Arabic expressions are also widely used and can come in handy for travelers.

The food in Senegal is generally very good. Regional specialties include poulet or poisson yassa, marinated and grilled chicken or fish; mafé, a peanut-based stew; tiéboudienne (chey-bou-jen), rice cooked in a fish and vegetable sauce. Senegalese beer is also good. Gazelle and Flag are popular brands.

Senegalese music can be divided into two broad categories: traditional and modern. Today's pop stars base their music on traditional sounds and rhythms and have become some of the most famous in Africa. The father of modern Senegalese music is Ibra Kassé, who founded the Star Band de Dakar in the early 1960s. Foremost amongst today's stars is Youssou N'dour, who combines traditional mbalax music and Western pop, rock and soul and has an international following. Touré Kunda is another world-famous exponent of mbalax, while Baaba Maal, a Peul from northern Senegal, sings in his native tongue and displays a more traditionally 'African' sound.

History

Senegal's recorded history dates from the 8th century, when it was part of the empire of Ghana. As this empire waned, the Djolof kingdom arose and flourished during the 13th and 14th centuries, in the area between the Senegal River and modern-day Dakar.

By the early 1500s, Portuguese traders had made contact with the coastal kingdoms, which was to last until the 16th century. They were displaced by the British, French and Dutch, who hoped to gain control of St-Louis and Gorée Island, strategic points where slaves bound for the Americas could be collected. St-Louis was finally secured by the French in 1659.

By the end of the 19th century, France controlled all of Senegal, and Dakar was built as the administrative centre. Senegal sent a deputy to the French parliament as early as 1848, but it wasn't until 1914 that the first African deputy, Blaise Diagne, was elected. He was followed by a new generation of black politicians led by Lamine Gueye and Leopold Senghor.

In the run-up to independence, Senegal joined French Sudan to form the Federation of Mali. The federation gained independence in 1960 but broke up two months later. Senegal became a republic under the presidency of Leopold Senghor.

At the end of 1980, Senghor stepped down as president. His place was taken by Abdou Diouf, whose first major crisis occurred in 1984, when it was discovered that an estimated 700,000 tonnes of groundnuts (about three times the official exported amount) had been smuggled into neighbouring countries by peasants unhappy with the fixed payments they received from the government.

In 1989, a minor incident on the Senegal-Mauritania border led to serious riots in both countries in which many people died. Both countries deported thousands of the other's nationals (killing hundreds in the process), the border was closed and diplomatic relations were broken off until April 1992.

In the early 1990s, there were serious clashes in the Casamance region between the army and separatist rebels. Quite apart from the suffering caused to the local people, the fighting severely affected Senegal's tourist industry. This compounded Senegal's already desperate financial situation.

More violence occurred in Casamance and elsewhere in early 1993, following elections in which Diouf was elected president for a third term. After long negotiations, a cease-fire was declared in July that year, and in the following months peace returned to Casamance. By early 1994, the first tourists had also begun to return.

Meanwhile, in other parts of the country, things were still far from peaceful. The government introduced a number of austerity measures, leading to a one-day general strike in early September and sporadic outbreaks of unrest in Dakar and other cities during the following months. The devaluation of the CFA in January 1994 also resulted in angry demonstrations. In February 1994, hundreds of people marched on Dakar's presidential palace and six policemen on guard were reportedly hacked to death. The government responded to this by ordering high-profile army patrols onto the streets of the capital. The popular opposition leader Abdou-laye Wade was arrested and accused of conspiracy.

Dakar remained tense but peaceful in the following months, and Wade was released in May 1994. Two months later, French officials visited Senegal and attempted to encourage President Diouf to include Wade in the government.

Activities

Events

The Islamic (or Hjira) calendar is a full 11 days shorter than the Gregorian (western) calendar, so public holidays and festivals fall 11 days earlier each year. In April for the next few years, Ras as-Sana is the Islamic celebration of the new year. Moulid an-Nabi celebrates the prophet Mohammed's birthday around June or July. Ramadan is celebrated during the ninth month of the Islamic calendar (presently in December), commemorating the month when the Qur'an was revealed to Mohammed. Out of deference, Muslims take neither food nor water until after sunset each day. At the end of Ramadan ('Eid al-Fitr), the fasting breaks amidst much celebration.

Other festivals include the Grand Magal pilgrimage and celebration, held in Touba 48 days after Ras as-Sana, and the Paris-Dakar Rally, a 10,000km (6200mi) motor race that ends in Dakar around the second week of January.

Public Holidays
1 January - New Year's Day
1 February - Confederation Day
March or April - Good Friday, Easter Monday, Tabaski
4 April - Independence Day
May or June - Ascension Day, Pentecost and Whit Monday
1 May - May Day
15 August - Assumption Day
1 November - All Saints' Day
25 December - Christmas
December or January - 'Eid al-Fitr

Activities

Senegal's best beaches are found in the Casamance around Cap Skiring. Closer to Dakar, check out Plage Bel-Air and the beaches of N'Gor, Malika-sur-Mer and Yoff. You can rent a sailboard or go water-skiing at several of these beaches, and the Kayak Club of Dakar has monthly kayak trips on rivers and the coast around the country. The coast off the Pointe des Almadies offers some of the best scuba diving in West Africa. In particular, check out the waters around Île de N'Gor, the Almadies area and Île de Gorée. The waters are at their best from February to April. If you find the saltwater too 'natural' for your liking, nearly all the top-end hotels of Dakar have swimming pools.

Dakar's cool weather means that jogging is a realistic option - a rarity in Africa. Most of the major hotels have tennis and (less commonly) squash courts. Hiking is a favorite of visitors to the Casamance, in particular the Parc National de Basse Casamance, while bird-watchers shake their tail feathers for the sights at the Parc National aux Oiseaux du Djoudj, the Parc National de la Langue de Barbarie and the Siné-Saloum Delta. Those hoping to spot something furrier will have better luck at the Parc National de Niokolo-Koba.

Travel

International Travel

When flying between Europe and Senegal, you have a wide choice of airlines, as you do when flying to other destinations in Africa, including to Bamako, Banjul, Abidjan and Bissau. Most airline offices are on or near the Place de l'Indépendance in Dakar, but it can be cheaper and easier to use a travel agency. Departure tax is US$15, but most tickets include that in the price.

Though Senegal completely surrounds The Gambia, Senegalese vehicles are not allowed to cross the border, so you have to change. (Only vehicles passing through on the Trans-Gambia Highway are allowed to cross the border, but you cannot end your journey in The Gambia.) The main entry points are at Karang and between Velingara and Basse Sante Su. Some intrepid travelers get rides on ocean-going pirogues (open wooden boats) from Dakar and Ziguinchor to Banjul, but there are no set schedules or prices, and you should note that these boats are notoriously unsafe.

Bush taxis run regularly from Dakar to Rosso, at Senegal's border with Mauritania, from where you catch a pirogue across the river. The whole journey can be done in a day if you leave early. Bush taxis also from Dakar to Labé, Guinea, and from Ziguinchor to Bissau, Guinea-Bissau (via São Domingos and Ingore).

The Dakar-Bamako express train is the best way to travel overland to Mali, as the road is very bad. The train departs Dakar on Wednesdays and Saturdays and takes 30-35 hours. Large, comfortable 1st-class seats can be reserved in advance; 2nd-class is more crowded with less comfortable, though adequate, seating. The train has a bar-restaurant car, or you can buy cheap food at stations along the way. Note that at each border post you have to get your passport stamped. It may be taken by an inspector on the train, but you still have to collect it yourself by going to the office at the border post. Nobody tells you this. So if your passport is taken, ask where and when you have to go to collect it. You may need a stamp at the police station in Kayes too, but this seems fairly arbitrary.

Local Travel

Air Senegal has daily flights from Dakar to Ziguinchor (and on to Cap Skiring) and weekly flights to Tambacounda and Kedougou. There are also flights to Simenti in the Niokolo-Koba game park.

The main roads between Dakar, Kaolack, Ziguinchor and other large towns are covered by buses (carrying 30 to 40 people) and good quality minibuses (between 15 and 30 seats). On many routes, you also find more rustic minibuses - sometimes, rather misleadingly, called cars rapides. These are battered, slow, crowded and worth avoiding if possible.

Your other option for long-distance travel is a bush taxi (taxi brousse). On the main routes, these are usually Peugeot 504s with three rows of seats: comfortable, safe and reliable. On rural routes, bush taxis are pick-ups (sometimes called bachés) that seat about 12 people on benches. Fares are reasonable.

Buses are about a third the price of bush taxis, and minibuses are somewhere in between. There's normally a small extra charge for luggage.

For travel around Senegal, trains are slower than road transport, but 2nd-class is usually cheaper. There are trains every day between Dakar and both St-Louis and Kaolack and weekly between Dakar and Tambacounda.

The ferry MV Joola sails between Dakar and Ziguinchor twice per week in each direction. The journey takes about 20 hours. Deck class is about half the cost of the comfortable reclining seats in 1st class. For a one or two person self-contained cabin, double the price again.

Car hire is not cheap - often twice as much as hiring a taxi's service for the same long-distance drive - but many of the big international companies have offices in Dakar. Some smaller outfits have cheaper deals available.

Reading

• West African history buffs will have a field day with any of the following titles: Contemporary West African States by Donald Cruise O'Brien, West Africa: an Introduction to its History by Michael Crowder, A History of West Africa, by Basil Davidson, West Africa Since 1800 by JB Webster and AA Boahen, and Topics of West African History by Adu Boahen.

• For would-be pundits in the political and economic arenas, there's meat to be dished in Democracy in Translation: Understanding Politics in an Unfamiliar Culture by Frederic C Schaffer, West African States by John Dunn and The Economies of West Africa by Douglas Rimmer.

• Tracy D Snipe's Arts and Politics in Senegal, is a solid, multi-dimensional work on the subjects and their interrelation.

• Watch out, all you greenies and tree huggers out there: The Seeds of Famine: Ecological Destruction & the Development Dilemma in the West African Sahel is just as cheery as it sounds.

• Africa South of the Sahara and the Resource Guide to Travel in Sub-Saharan Africa, Vol. 1 are both widely respected and highly detailed reference works for the region.

• A Field Guide to Birds of The Gambia and Senegal by Clive Barlow, Tim Wacher and Tony Disley is just what the ornithologist in you needs to really take flight.

• Geoffrey Gorer's African Dances is less a study of African dance than it is a tale of a colonial-era white man's adventures travelling from Senegal to Benin in 1935.

• Senegalese author Sembéné Ousmane's God's Bits of Wood is his most widely acclaimed to date and tells of the struggles of strikers on the Dakar-Niger train line in 1948. Other novels by Ousmane include The Last of the Empire and Money Order with White Genesis.

• Florence Ladd's first novel, Sarah's Psalm, deals with a young, black Harvard student who travels to Senegal to interview a famous writer and ends up falling in love with both the country and the writer.

• Susan Lowerre's Under the Neem Tree tells a vivid and accurate story of a Peace Corps volunteer in the region.